I’ve commuted by bike in winter through snow and ice on and off over several years in a part of Japan known, among other things, for its snowfall. People will tell you cycling in winter through snow, ice and blizzards is impossible, but it is quite doable with some preparation and practice. Its also fun and quite strenuous exercise. People have occasionally asked me what is required, so I decided to write these notes.
Tips for cycling in snow
- A mountain bike is ideal. When the snow is soft and deep (or the road ice is thick and melting) the low gearing of a mountain bike helps to maintain traction. Disc brakes work well and are preferable.
- Spiked tyres suitable for icy conditions are essential. I use Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro tyres.
- Lots of bright front and rear light to see the road in front of you and so other road users can see you in dark and difficult conditions. I use two 300 lumen headlights and three bright flashing tail lights. Sometimes I add a helmet mounted light.
- A mirror to monitor traffic to the rear. Roads get narrow with heavy snowfall and other road users may be unable to pass a cyclist. I will usually stop and let cars and trucks pass in preference to having a possibly increasingly impatient driver behind me.
- I prefer to carry my belongings in a touring bag rather than using a backpack. Balance is critical especially when the temperature rises above zero and the road ice becomes mushy.
- Warm clothing, of course!
- On the top I wear a merino wool undershirt, one or two thermal tops and a cycling jacket. For my legs, thermal cycling tights made for sub-zero temperatures.
- Hands and feet can get very cold after a while. I use very thick cycling gloves made for sub-zero temperatures, sometimes with thermal inserts when it is very cold. I put thick socks and warm hiking boots on my feet.
- Helmet with thermal cap underneath, ski goggles and a neck gaiter. When it is very cold it is best to cover all of your skin. In those conditions I wear a ski mask or balaclava.
- As I like to cycle out into the countryside, I pack tools, a spare tube and pump as well as spikes for my boots in case of a breakdown.
Cycling in snow and ice requires some practice. It took me a week of commutes to start feeling comfortable on the bike. Riding on hard snow and ice when it is very cold is not difficult with spiked tyres. Deep snow or mushy melting snow and ice is more challenging. I think the most important points are i) relax and don’t try to control the direction of the bike too much, ii) keep good traction with the bike moving forward at all times, and iii) don’t incline the bike too much around corners.
The Cycling training on snow: tips for icebiking in Hokkaido (Japan) website is a great resource, created by a group of (extreme!) snow-cycling enthusiasts, that contains a wealth of information on everything from tyre pressure to underwear. It was a great help when I first prepared to commute through the ice and snow in 2014.
